Making Wine from Pinot Grigio/Gris Grapes

Introduction to Pinot Grigio/Gris

Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris are the same grape variety -- a grayish-pink skinned mutation of Pinot Noir -- but the two names represent dramatically different winemaking philosophies. Italian-style Pinot Grigio emphasizes lightness and crisp refreshment, while Alsatian-style Pinot Gris favors richness, body, and aromatic complexity. As a home winemaker, understanding both styles allows you to craft exactly the wine you envision.

Origins and Spread of the Variety

Pinot Gris originated as a color mutation of Pinot Noir in Burgundy, France, where it was historically known as Pinot Beurot. The grape's distinctive grayish-blue to pinkish-brown skin color sets it apart visually from other white wine grapes, though the juice itself is pale yellow to nearly clear.

The grape found particular success in Alsace, where it was traditionally called Tokay d'Alsace (a name no longer permitted by EU regulation). It also established deep roots in northeastern Italy, where it became the wildly popular Pinot Grigio. Significant plantings exist in Oregon (USA), New Zealand, Australia, and Germany (where it is known as Grauburgunder).

Two Styles from One Grape

The key difference between the two styles lies in winemaking approach, not the grape itself:

• Pinot Grigio (Italian style): Early harvest, cool fermentation, stainless steel, light body, crisp acidity, subtle fruit, easy drinking
• Pinot Gris (Alsatian style): Later harvest, some skin contact, possible oak, fuller body, richer texture, more aromatic complexity, sometimes off-dry

Home winemakers have the freedom to explore both styles or create a personal hybrid approach.

Growing Conditions and Grape Selection

Climate Preferences

Pinot Grigio/Gris is an early-ripening variety that performs well in cool to moderate climates. The grape tends to lose acidity rapidly in warm conditions, so cool-climate growing regions produce the best-balanced fruit. Hot climates yield flabby wines with little character.

In North America, the best growing regions include Oregon's Willamette Valley, the Finger Lakes of New York, parts of British Columbia, and cooler sites in California such as the Sonoma Coast and Anderson Valley.

Selecting Grapes for Each Style

For Pinot Grigio style: Source grapes harvested at 19-21 Brix with TA of 7-8.5 g/L and pH of 3.1-3.3. Earlier harvest preserves the crisp acidity and delicate character essential to this style.

For Pinot Gris style: Look for grapes at 22-24 Brix with TA of 6-7.5 g/L and pH of 3.2-3.5. The riper fruit provides the weight and aromatic intensity needed for the fuller-bodied style.

Handling the Unique Skin Color

Pinot Grigio's grayish-pink skins contain more phenolic compounds and pigments than most white wine grapes. Extended skin contact can produce wines with a distinctive coppery-pink hue, a style sometimes called ramato (copper-colored) that has gained popularity among natural wine enthusiasts. For a conventional white wine, minimize skin contact during crushing and pressing.

Winemaking Process for Pinot Grigio Style

Crushing and Quick Pressing

For Italian-style Pinot Grigio, speed and minimal skin contact are paramount. Whole-cluster press the grapes if possible, or crush gently and press immediately. Add 30-40 ppm sulfite at crushing.

The goal is to minimize extraction of phenolics and color from the skins. A clean, pale juice sets the foundation for the light, refreshing character of Pinot Grigio.

Cold Settling and Fermentation

Allow the juice to cold settle at 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit for 24-48 hours. Rack the clear juice into a clean fermenter, leaving heavy lees behind.

Inoculate with a neutral yeast such as Lalvin EC-1118 or QA23 at a temperature of 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit. Pinot Grigio fermentation should be clean and restrained, emphasizing subtle pear and citrus notes rather than bold tropical fruit.

Follow a standard staggered nutrient addition protocol and expect fermentation to take 2-4 weeks at cool temperatures. Ferment to complete dryness.

Post-Fermentation for Pinot Grigio

After fermentation, rack promptly off the lees. Avoid malolactic fermentation to preserve bright acidity. Cold stabilize, fine with bentonite if needed, and prepare for early bottling. Pinot Grigio should be bottled 3-5 months after harvest and consumed within 1-2 years.

Winemaking Process for Pinot Gris Style

Extended Skin Contact

For the richer Alsatian style, consider a cold skin maceration of 12-24 hours at 40-45 degrees Fahrenheit before pressing. This extracts additional flavor compounds, aromatic precursors, and a touch of phenolic structure that gives Pinot Gris its characteristic weight and texture.

Press after maceration and add 30-40 ppm sulfite. The resulting juice will be deeper in color than the quick-press Pinot Grigio juice -- ranging from pale gold to light copper depending on maceration duration.

Fermentation with More Complexity

Use an aromatic yeast strain such as Lalvin CY3079 (a Burgundy isolate) or ICV D47 for Pinot Gris. These strains enhance mouthfeel and contribute subtle aromatic complexity.

Ferment at 55-62 degrees Fahrenheit -- slightly warmer than Pinot Grigio to encourage more flavor development. For added richness, ferment a portion of the wine in neutral French oak barrels or add light-toast French oak alternatives.

Sur Lie Aging

After fermentation, keep the wine on its fine lees for 3-6 months, stirring gently every 1-2 weeks (batonnage). This technique adds creamy texture, body, and complexity that distinguishes Pinot Gris from the lighter Grigio style.

A partial malolactic fermentation can soften acidity and add buttery complexity, though this is a stylistic choice. Many Alsatian producers allow spontaneous partial MLF.

Flavor Profiles

Pinot Grigio Flavor Profile

Well-made Pinot Grigio displays restrained, elegant flavors:

• Fruit: Green apple, pear, white peach, lemon, lime
• Floral: Subtle white flower, almond blossom
• Other: Mineral, saline, mild honey, light herbs
• Texture: Light-bodied, crisp, clean finish

Pinot Gris Flavor Profile

Pinot Gris offers a richer, more generous expression:

• Fruit: Ripe pear, yellow apple, apricot, peach, quince
• Floral: Honeysuckle, rose petal, acacia
• Spice: Ginger, white pepper, subtle baking spices
• Texture: Medium to full-bodied, oily/viscous mouthfeel, long finish

The Ramato Style

The increasingly popular ramato style involves extended skin contact (24-72 hours or more), producing a copper-colored wine with enhanced phenolic grip, dried fruit notes, and a savory quality. This style bridges the gap between white and orange wines and pairs exceptionally well with charcuterie and Mediterranean cuisine.

Food Pairing Suggestions

Pinot Grigio Pairings

The light, crisp character of Pinot Grigio complements:

• Light seafood: Grilled shrimp, steamed mussels, calamari
• Salads: Caesar salad, caprese, mixed greens with lemon vinaigrette
• Italian antipasti: Bruschetta, prosciutto and melon, marinated vegetables
• Light pasta: Pasta primavera, linguine with clam sauce

Pinot Gris Pairings

The richer Pinot Gris style stands up to heartier dishes:

• Rich seafood: Lobster, scallops in cream sauce, salmon
• Poultry: Roast chicken, turkey, duck confit
• Pork: Grilled pork chops, pork tenderloin with stone fruit
• Alsatian specialties: Choucroute garnie, tarte flambee, Munster cheese

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris?

They are the same grape variety -- the difference lies in winemaking style and tradition. Pinot Grigio refers to the lighter, crisper Italian approach with early harvest and minimal skin contact. Pinot Gris refers to the richer, fuller Alsatian approach with riper grapes and more winemaking intervention. As a home winemaker, you can produce either style from the same grapes.

What is the best yeast for Pinot Grigio?

For lighter Pinot Grigio, EC-1118 or QA23 provide clean, neutral fermentation that lets the grape's delicate character shine. For richer Pinot Gris, CY3079 or ICV D47 add mouthfeel and aromatic complexity. D47 requires careful temperature control (do not exceed 64 degrees Fahrenheit) to avoid producing off-flavors.

Should I use oak with Pinot Grigio/Gris?

For Pinot Grigio style, avoid oak entirely -- the goal is crisp, clean fruit expression. For Pinot Gris style, moderate use of neutral or lightly-toasted French oak can add complexity and texture. Avoid heavy toast or new oak, which can overwhelm the grape's relatively delicate aromatics.

How do I make a ramato-style orange wine from Pinot Grigio?

Crush the grapes and leave the juice in contact with the skins for 2-7 days at cool temperatures (55-65 degrees Fahrenheit), punching down the cap twice daily. Press after maceration, then ferment as usual. The resulting wine will have a copper-pink color, more tannin structure, and richer flavors than conventional white wine. Consider a brief period of skin-contact fermentation for additional complexity.

Why does my Pinot Grigio taste flat and boring?

Bland Pinot Grigio usually results from overripe grapes (too high Brix, too low acidity), warm fermentation temperatures that blow off delicate aromatics, or grapes from an excessively warm climate. To improve results, source grapes from cooler regions, harvest earlier, ferment cooler, and consider a brief cold skin maceration to add aromatic complexity without adding weight.

Can I blend Pinot Grigio with other varieties?

Yes, Pinot Grigio/Gris blends well with several varieties. Common and effective blends include Pinot Grigio with Pinot Blanc for added body, with Riesling for aromatic complexity and acidity, or with Gewurztraminer for spice and floral notes. In Italy, Pinot Grigio is sometimes blended with Garganega or Trebbiano.

How long does Pinot Grigio/Gris wine last?

Light Pinot Grigio should be consumed within 1-2 years of bottling for maximum freshness. Richer Pinot Gris styles with lees aging and oak contact can develop nicely for 3-5 years. Exceptional Alsatian-style Pinot Gris with high acidity and residual sugar can age 5-10 years or more, developing complex honey and spice notes.

What is the ideal fermentation temperature for Pinot Grigio?

For Pinot Grigio, ferment at 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit to preserve delicate fruit and maintain crispness. For Pinot Gris, a slightly warmer 55-62 degrees Fahrenheit encourages more aromatic development and body. In both cases, avoid exceeding 65 degrees Fahrenheit, which can produce heavy, coarse wines with diminished aromatics.